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Lavender Festival – the purple heart of Hvar

Lavender Festival – the purple heart of Hvar

Imagine a hot summer evening, the sun slowly setting, and such an intense, intoxicating scent hits your nose that your head spins for a moment. No, you're not in French Provence. You're standing on an old road in the middle of the half-forgotten village of Velo Grablje on the island of Hvar. It is here that every year at the beginning of summer, the Lavender Festival Festival levande takes place, which will show you a completely different side of Croatia, one that most tourists from beach resorts never see.

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Light on the Surface: The Story of the Fishermen of Vrboska

Light on the Surface: The Story of the Fishermen of Vrboska

The sea is quietest at night. Only the gentle rocking of the boat and the regular lapping of water against its sides disturb the darkness that spreads over the bay. Somewhere in the middle, a small fishing boat stands. A light burns at its bow, once a pine torch, later a kerosene lamp, and beneath it, a quiet drama begins to unfold.

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Magical Easter Processions in Jelsa: Can You Swim in the Sea in April?

Magical Easter Processions in Jelsa: Can You Swim in the Sea in April?

If you only know Hvar as a summer destination full of parasols and cocktails, you're missing out on a lot. Easter is truly the most magical time on the island. In 2023, we experienced this firsthand in Jelsa, and it was an experience that combines deep humility before history and pure joy of spring.

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Uljara Radojković in Bogomolje – Tasting Fantastic Olive Oils with a Tour of the Oil Mill

Uljara Radojković in Bogomolje – Tasting Fantastic Olive Oils with a Tour of the Oil Mill

On the outskirts of the village of Bogomolje on the island of Hvar lies a noteworthy place surrounded by a beautiful, well-maintained Mediterranean garden with a pleasant ambiance. This place is Uljara Radojković – an oil mill where olives are processed into olive oil.

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Picturesque Pobij Bay on Hvar Island

Picturesque Pobij Bay on Hvar Island

Last year, as part of our Robinson Crusoe summer, we spent a pleasant week in the picturesque Pobij Bay near the village of Gdinj. This small bay has several benefits that made our small children, who were 4 and 6 years old at the time, love it.

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Semi-Robinsonian Bay Tvrdni Dolac on the island of Hvar

Semi-Robinsonian Bay Tvrdni Dolac on the island of Hvar

This year we were lucky enough to spend a few wonderful days in Tvrdni Dolac bay. It's a semi-Robinsonian bay. It's not complete solitude, but at the same time, it's wonderfully peaceful. I would love to go back there again for a longer stay.

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Peaceful Pelinovik Bay on Hvar Island

Peaceful Pelinovik Bay on Hvar Island

One of the beautiful southern bays of Hvar Island is Pelinovik Bay. It is located near the village of Bogomolje in the eastern part of the island. We spent a few unforgettable days there at the beginning of August 2023, so all photos are from the main summer season. We liked it so much that we have already booked accommodation for next year for the beginning of summer.

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Beaches around Jelsa on the island of Hvar

Beaches around Jelsa on the island of Hvar

Jelsa is one of the larger resorts on the island of Hvar. I think it's just the right size for a pleasant holiday. There are good restaurants, nice cafes, you'll find famous ice cream in a pastry shop right on the Riva, and a nice children's playground is a short walk away. And what about Jelsa's beaches? If I disregard the small town beach a short distance from the center, there are other pleasant options for swimming and sunbathing.

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Abandoned shepherd settlements of Rašnik and Maslinovik on the island of Hvar

Abandoned shepherd settlements of Rašnik and Maslinovik on the island of Hvar

Today I'm taking you on another trip to the Stari Grad Plain (Starogradsko polje), specifically to two abandoned settlements, Rašnik and Maslinovik. It's a nice walk, more suitable outside the main season when it's not so hot. We took the walk in April, when it's already quite pleasant during the day, and our small children also enjoyed the places.

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Glavica viewpoint above Stari Grad on Hvar

Glavica viewpoint above Stari Grad on Hvar

One of the nice walks around Stari Grad on the island of Hvar is the Glavica viewpoint. You can't miss the white cross at its summit, it's visible from afar. The hill's peak is at an elevation of 111 m above sea level, so the walk is truly pleasant with no significant elevation gain. Even small children can manage it. We took this walk shortly after Easter, when the weather on Hvar is just right for walks.

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Abandoned village of Malo Grablje on Hvar island

Abandoned village of Malo Grablje on Hvar island

This small abandoned village with a romantic touch offers you a journey back in time to recent eras. Time stopped here around 1967, when the inhabitants moved to nearby Milna. It's clear at first glance that the village is abandoned. The houses are dilapidated and overgrown with lush vegetation. However, on one edge of the village, in contrast to all this, there is a beautifully reconstructed villa. One immediately thinks that perhaps some life might return here over time.

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Zaraće Bay near the village of Gdinj on Hvar Island

Zaraće Bay near the village of Gdinj on Hvar Island

There are two bays named Zaraće on Hvar Island, so it's good to know which Zaraće you're actually heading to. This Zaraće Bay is in the eastern part of Hvar Island near the village of Gdinj. This year we spent about 4 weeks here, and although it's a larger bay by 'Robinson Crusoe' standards, we really liked it there.

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Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding in Betina on the island of Murter

Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding in Betina on the island of Murter

Betina on Murter has one wonderful thing worth seeing, and that is the museum of wooden shipbuilding. It is definitely the most beautiful museum I have seen in Croatia. The museum is in the center of Betina in a beautiful historic building and there are many interesting things to see.

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Colentum – an ancient city on a pebble beach

Colentum – an ancient city on a pebble beach

On the outskirts of the town of Murter, behind the Hramina port, on the Gradina peninsula, lies the archaeological site of Colentum. The remains of the Roman settlement stretch from the foot of Gradina hill down to below sea level. The monuments are practically on the beach, so it's a great opportunity to combine a trip with swimming. You'll need a snorkel to explore the submerged part of the city – they say amphorae and other interesting things can be seen underwater. In antiquity, the sea level was 2 meters lower than it is now.

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Raduč – the highest hill on the island of Murter

Raduč – the highest hill on the island of Murter

If you love viewpoints as much as we do, you shouldn't miss the highest hill on the island of Murter, called Raduč. It's not a very big hill, only 125 m above sea level, but the views from here are truly beautiful.

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Viewpoint Crkva Sv. Roka on the island of Murter

Viewpoint Crkva Sv. Roka on the island of Murter

In May, we set out to discover the beauties of Murter, and this small church, Crkva Sv. Roka, immediately captivated us. From here, there's a beautiful view of the surrounding islets and the mainland, simply far and wide. You can also clearly see the towns of Murter and Betina from here.

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Cyclopean Wall in Stari Grad, archaeological site Remete vrt and church Sv. Ivan

Cyclopean Wall in Stari Grad, archaeological site Remete vrt and church Sv. Ivan

We set out for this interesting place in Stari Grad after an excellent dinner at La Gitana restaurant. The place is located on the outskirts of the town, near Crkva Sv. Stjepan, and it's a short and pleasant walk through stone streets from the center. This year, the church Crkva Sv. Ivan, with remains of beautiful Christian mosaics, is also accessible, and I couldn't miss that. The adjacent archaeological site Remete vrt is small, but historical periods intertwine well there. If I add the explanation we received in Croatian, it all takes about half an hour.

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Olive oil tasting, homemade jams, lavender products, and authentic Dalmatian feast

Olive oil tasting, homemade jams, lavender products, and authentic Dalmatian feast

In the small, sleepy village of Bogomolje on the eastern part of Hvar island, a home-based hospitality business has emerged that is worth your attention. Across the entire island of Hvar, you can find many olive oil producers. Some of them are truly good and keep their ancestors' traditions alive. Miro and Anita Rudan are among them.

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Robinsonades near the village of Bogomolje on the island of Hvar

Robinsonades near the village of Bogomolje on the island of Hvar

Are you thinking about a peaceful holiday in Croatia, but picturing a crowded beach in Makarska and feeling a bit overwhelmed by it? Then you can calmly forget about that. If you want to relax from civilization on your holiday, read on, we have a tip for a few bays with robinsonades on the island of Hvar. We have explored all these bays. The village of Bogomolje and its bays are a matter of the heart for us. We succumbed to the charm of these bays so much that we came here for 10 years and more often than just for summer holidays. It's a place where time has somewhat stopped. Even tourist guides overlook this part of the island.

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Vlašići on the island of Pag

Vlašići on the island of Pag

Last September, before our trip to Hvar island, we stayed for a few days on Pag island in the village of Vlašići. Anyone who, like us, enjoys a quiet holiday will be happy here. A big bonus here is the sandy beach and sandy seabed with a very, very, very gradual entry into the sea. I dare say it's an ideal place for children. At least our children enjoyed it very much.

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Zaraće Bay – a small piece of paradise on Earth

Zaraće Bay – a small piece of paradise on Earth

If I ever imagine what paradise looks like, Zaraće Bay largely fulfills this idea as one of the few places. Yes, it is simply a small piece of paradise on Earth for us.

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Beautiful and mysterious Starogradsko polje

Beautiful and mysterious Starogradsko polje

So here we are again, in the beautiful and mysterious landscape of the Stari Grad Plain. It is quiet, almost meditative. And it hides its treasures. One has to put in the effort to find what they want to see. There's quite a lot here, and the search is definitely worth it.

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Sućuraj

Sućuraj

Sućuraj is a beautiful small resort located at the very east of the island of Hvar. It is only 6 km from the mainland, which is why it has always been more connected to the mainland than to the rest of the island. This is also evidenced by the fact that the road connecting Sućuraj with the western part of Hvar island began construction under Napoleon in 1811. However, it was only completed after World War II in 1961 and asphalted in 1969. Electricity was also brought to the island of Hvar in 1961.

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Fisheries Museum in Vrboska

Fisheries Museum in Vrboska

Whoever expects a boring museum will be very surprised. The Fisheries Museum in Vrboska is a nice and interesting trip not only for adults but also for children. Our two small children (5 years and 2.5 years old) really enjoyed the museum, they were most interested in the exhibits of various underwater animals. The exhaustive explanation by a museum employee also contributes to the wonderful experience. Although the explanation is in Croatian, one can easily understand what is being talked about – partly because the vocabulary is quite similar, and partly because there are many exhibits that visibly facilitate the explanation. So even if you don't understand much Croatian, I believe you will understand everything. Moreover, it was clear that the gentleman was used to speaking to foreigners and described things very simply, often even using some Czech. We really liked the museum.

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Jelsa

Jelsa

The charming small resort of Jelsa, in my opinion, has everything one needs for a holiday. You'll find good restaurants, pleasant cafes, some ice cream, and for children, there's a playground and trampolines in the park. By the harbor, there are stalls offering local products, and along the main road, there are various small shops. In the town, there are smaller grocery stores, and outside the town, there's a large shopping center. The pleasant sandy beach in Mina Bay will delight not only small children. There's real sand for building sandcastles, and the entire bay is very shallow.

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Secluded Bays near the village of Bogomolje on Hvar

Secluded Bays near the village of Bogomolje on Hvar

I invite you for a ride through the secluded bays on the island of Hvar near the village of Bogomolje. I'll show you all the bays on the northern side, which are accessed from Bogomolje. Ready? Let's go!

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To the highest peak of Hvar

To the highest peak of Hvar

Sveti Nikola is the highest peak of the island of Hvar, located 628 m above sea level. I had been looking forward to this trip for years and finally got to experience it. On the second day of September last year, we set out with our small children to conquer this hill (our son was a year and a half old and our daughter was four). Because of the children, we chose to drive by car almost to the summit. Even our car, without four-wheel drive, managed the macadam road.

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Tvrdalj of Petar Hektorović

Tvrdalj of Petar Hektorović

It's one of the landmarks on Hvar that you shouldn't miss. You won't find a more famous pool on the island. At the end of August, we were sometimes alone there, and at such times, the atmosphere of the place was almost meditative. One would just sit there next to the old cycad, listen to the wind in the mature garden, and merge with the tranquility of the place in their mind. It's hard to imagine at such a moment that the building also had a defensive purpose.

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Starogradsko polje on the island of Hvar – where time stood still

Starogradsko polje on the island of Hvar – where time stood still

I don't know many places where time has truly stood still. For 24 centuries, Starogradsko polje has looked the same. Of course, some things have deteriorated over time, grand Roman villas have crumbled, and stones were used for further construction. But the main essence remains and continues to endure, century after century. It's an amazing place; for 24 centuries, olives, grapevines, and formerly grain have been continuously cultivated here. For 24 centuries, stone walls have stood, dividing the vast plain into small private parcels. For 24 centuries, the same paths have crisscrossed the plain. It is living history. And it still looks more or less the same as it once did. Come walk through history with us; it will be an interesting journey.

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Botanical and Zoological Garden on Hvar Island

Botanical and Zoological Garden on Hvar Island

Did you know that there is a botanical and zoological garden on Hvar Island? You didn't? Read on and find out more. I was once sitting over a map, thinking about where else to go...

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Playgrounds on Hvar Island

Playgrounds on Hvar Island

Our children love the sea, but sometimes they long for a change, and a playground is an excellent diversion on the way to shopping or ice cream. Here's a short report on the playgrounds we visited on Hvar Island.

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Trip to the Lavender Village of Velo Grablje on Hvar

Trip to the Lavender Village of Velo Grablje on Hvar

Here's a story about how Hvar became a lavender island, how locals remember it, and how we ventured to the village where it all began.

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Green island Lastovo in the south of Croatia

Green island Lastovo in the south of Croatia

There are several reasons why you should visit Lastovo, the southernmost island of Croatia. And there are two reasons why this Dalmatian island is not frequently visited. Are you curious what those reasons are?

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Romantic Trsteno

Romantic Trsteno

If you have a holiday planned in southern Dalmatia, the arboretum in the village of Trsteno should not escape your attention. It's a pleasant refreshment on a hot summer day, as the arboretum has quite a lot of shade thanks to its mature vegetation. As a pregnant traveler with an advanced bump, I was very grateful for that. Moreover, you can combine your visit to the arboretum with a pleasant refreshment – don't forget your swimsuit. Once the mature and lush vegetation of the arboretum has sufficiently tired you out, you can swim in the sea directly below the park. A path down the stairs leads to a small bay with a waterfall. You won't find a pebble beach here, but flat rocks or a large concrete pier will suffice for a refreshing dip. And don't forget mosquito repellent, it will come in handy.

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Lastovo – Isolated Paradise of Southern Croatia

Lastovo – Isolated Paradise of Southern Croatia

Lastovo is simply different. It had long attracted us, shrouded in an air of mystery. A remote island of Croatia, we had to see it. And they say it has an unforgettable atmosphere, which we wanted to experience. So we set off. I must say that we enjoy islands, and Lastovo delighted us greatly. Thanks to its remoteness, it is not such a frequent tourist destination, and perhaps because of this, it has preserved its authenticity to this day. And that's precisely why it's worth taking the longer journey and coming here.

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