I don't know many places where time has truly stood still. For 24 centuries, Starogradsko polje has looked the same. Of course, some things have deteriorated over time, grand Roman villas have crumbled, and stones were used for further construction. But the main essence remains and continues to endure, century after century. It's an amazing place; for 24 centuries, olives, grapevines, and formerly grain have been continuously cultivated here. For 24 centuries, stone walls have stood, dividing the vast plain into small private parcels. For 24 centuries, the same paths have crisscrossed the plain. It is living history. And it still looks more or less the same as it once did. Come walk through history with us; it will be an interesting journey.
I must confess one thing. When I was writing this article, I knew we had only seen a few of the monuments on the entire plain. I even had a perfect map – you'll find out where to get it soon. But it wasn't until I looked for more historical information on various Croatian and English websites that I realized we had truly seen only a fraction of everything. There are about 90 trimi alone on the plain. There's so much there that I already have a long list of places I want to see next time. Not just monuments, but other interesting places too. The Starigrad Plain enchanted me. It has its charm; you stand there, in the middle of a path where Greeks and later Romans once walked, and everywhere is silence and peace, only the wind plays in the olive tree branches…
A map you'll be glad to have
Before you head to Starogradsko polje, go to the tourist center in Stari Grad – it's on the Riva right next to the market. Ask for a map of the plain; it will come in handy. Besides the monuments, it also marks the paths, divided into asphalt roads, macadam roads, and pedestrian paths. This is especially useful if you're driving, like us with small children. But I can imagine exploring the plain by bike or scooter; it would be much better. Another advantage of the map, of course, is that you always have an overview of all the monuments. There are many of them, and the plain is vast. So, let's go 🙂 And don't forget proper shoes; you won't make it in flip-flops in some places.
What exactly is Starogradsko polje?
Starogradsko polje (Starigrad Plain) is a large fertile plain that uniquely refers to the beginnings of Greek settlement on the island of Hvar. In the 4th century BC, Greek settlers from the island of Pharos found a suitable harbor (Stari Grad) on Hvar, along with a plain with very fertile soil suitable for agricultural purposes. Starogradsko polje is located between the towns of Stari Grad and Vrboska, bordered inland by the villages of Dol and Vrbanj. The total area is 1,376 hectares.
The Greeks divided the plain into parcels bordered by walls, creating a rectangular network of paths between the parcels. The walls and paths are preserved to this day, and therein lies the greatest historical significance of the plain – it is the most extensive monument of this type in the Mediterranean. The walls have endured in the same form for a remarkable 24 centuries. The Starigrad Plain was therefore inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List of cultural and natural sites.
There is also a beautiful map marking the entire area on the UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1240/multiple=1&unique_number=1484
Kupinovik
The first stop is the ancient Roman villa Kupinovik. Where the Greeks built simple shelters, the Romans spared no expense and built agricultural complexes including villas, farm buildings with wine and olive presses, mills, storage facilities, accommodation for laborers, and of course, spaces for farm animals. Villa Kupinovik dates back to the 1st century AD, and at that time, it was just one of many such villas on the island.
Villa Kupinovik is located on the main road between Stari Grad and Jelsa. One must be truly determined to find the place, as it's easy to miss. From the main road, it's a narrow turn-off among olive trees, with no sign, no indicator. Perhaps this is because Kupinovik and other monuments today actually lie on the private land of the owners of the surrounding olive groves and vineyards. Nevertheless, the place is publicly accessible. When we were there at the turn of August and September, we were completely alone. And in fact, we were alone on the entire plain; we never met any tourists there. If you're more interested in the place, archaeological finds from the Kupinovik excavations can be seen in the museum in Split.
GPS souřadnice vily Kupinovik: 43°10’37.9″N 16°36’51.8″E; 43.177200, 16.614395
Veliki Trim
It is by far the largest trim I have seen. It is located near the main road from Stari Grad to Vrboska. It's not hard to find. This trim is really large, and steps wind up its sides to the roof. If you want, you can climb up. Here, I recommend good shoes; my sandals couldn't handle it, so I'll go up next time. The trim's doors are open, so you can go inside and admire the structure from within. It's an interesting sight. Trimi are among the structures built using the “suhozid” technique, i.e., without mortar or other binder. The suhozid technique was even inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List, and although few people today know how to build suhozid, a recent initiative of the same name has emerged, restoring stone walls and thus keeping the suhozid technique alive.
Reportedly, more than 90 trimi have been documented on the plain. Trimi are a very widespread type of stone structure, not only throughout Croatia. They are found all over the Mediterranean, and even on the British Isles and elsewhere in Europe.
According to websites dedicated to the topography of Hvar island, there are a total of 720 trimi on the island. If you want to explore more trimi, check out this page, where you'll also find a map with marked trimi across the entire island: https://www.topohvar.at/topo/trim/trim-lage/
GPS souřadnice trimu: 43°11’00.4″N 16°37’31.2″E; 43.183434, 16.625335
Stone Walls
Stone walls are ubiquitous on Hvar. And again, not just there. But on Hvar, their significance is also given by the local landscape – in order to cultivate anything in the soil, the stones had to be collected. And what's important – the walls must be constantly renewed. It's hard to imagine the hours and hours of work involved. They were used to delineate parcels, to retain soil in place, and also to protect plants from the strong wind called “bura”. The walls are also built using the suhozid technique without any binder. Some of the walls on the Starigrad Plain are truly preserved from the time of Greek settlement.
Ostojića Mill (sometimes called Žorkov Mill)
This used to be one of two watermills on the island of Hvar. Today, only ruins overgrown with wild vegetation remain. It's easy to overlook from the road, as it's not very visible due to the growth. You can't go inside. It's a pity; this monument deserves more attention and maintenance. If only because it refers to the transformation of the landscape on Hvar – the mill was built at the beginning of the 19th century, and at that time, there was less vegetation and more water on Hvar, so the mill operated for most of the year (for the rest of the year, the stream was dry). The mill is built by the Vir stream, which flows/flowed from the village of Dol. Ancient authors even mention the existence of a river on the island, but more on that another time.
GPS souřadnice mlýna: 43°10’30.9″N 16°36’49.3″E; 43.175261, 16.613699
Chapel Gospojica – Chapel of the Virgin Mary
The chapel near Stari Grad dates back to the 16th century; you can look inside.
GPS souřadnice kaple: 43°11’08.9″N 16°36’30.8″E; 43.185811, 16.608567
You can find more about Starogradsko polje here: https://zijemechorvatskem.wordpress.com/2021/03/28/starogradsko-polje-na-ostrove-hvar-tady-se-zastavil-cas/
