Imagine a hot summer evening, the sun slowly setting, and such an intense, intoxicating scent hits your nose that your head spins for a moment. No, you're not in French Provence. You're standing on an old road in the middle of the half-forgotten village of Velo Grablje on the island of Hvar. It is here that every year at the beginning of summer, the Lavender Festival Festival levande takes place, which will show you a completely different side of Croatia, one that most tourists from beach resorts never see.
This year marks the 18th edition of this pleasant festival, and if you're heading to Hvar in the coming days, this event is worth your attention. The festival is taking place this year from July 2-4, 2026, and we have some interesting inspiration for you from our own trips in 2023 and 2024.
Velo Grablje – the village saved by lavender
To understand the magic of the entire festival, we need to go back in time for a moment. The village of Velo Grablje, located in the island's interior along the old road from Stari Grad to Hvar town, was on the verge of poverty a hundred years ago. The local vineyards were completely decimated by disease at the time, and people had nothing to eat.
Everything changed in 1928. Local native Bartul Tomičić, known to everyone as barba Borti, decided to take a risk. He planted the first lavender bushes in the harsh, stony soil. His neighbors laughed at him then, saying he was growing "flowers for decoration." But their laughter quickly faded. Lavender (specifically the Hvar hybrid called lavandin) thrived incredibly well in the Hvar sun.
Did you know that during its golden era in the 1970s, this small Adriatic island covered almost 10% of the world's lavender oil production? With the money from "liquid purple gold," local families financed their children's studies, built houses on the coast, and established the first restaurants. Lavender literally saved Hvar from poverty and depopulation.
Personal reflection: how we experienced the festival in previous years
We were incredibly lucky to visit the festival in previous years and we can confirm one thing: this event retains an absolutely pure community spirit. Don't expect any crowds there. The entire festival is organized by the Pjover association, which strives to revive traditions and bring life back to the abandoned village.
The courtyard by the local church comes alive with stalls. Forget commercial plastic souvenirs. Here you can buy the purest lavender oil, fragrant sachets for your wardrobe, homemade lavender cosmetics, syrups, or absolutely fantastic and rare lavender honey from local farmers.
Our little gastro tip: If you come across homemade lavender ice cream or lavender liqueur (ideally chilled) at the festival, don't hesitate for a second and try it.
Lavender Craft
The festival is not just about shopping, it's a celebration of craft. One of the greatest experiences is the opportunity to try harvesting lavender and observe the traditional distillation of lavender oil. Local men light fires under historical copper stills, fill them with freshly harvested lavender, and you can watch with your own eyes as the first pure drops of precious essence flow from the tap. The air around the still is so intensely saturated with the scent that we could still smell it in our noses hours after leaving.
In addition, the festival is accompanied by many workshops – you can try building traditional dry stone walls (suhozids), which line the entire island without a drop of mortar and protect fields from erosion. This building technique is inscribed on the USNECO list of intangible cultural heritage. Then, in the evening, when the streets resonate with the tones of traditional Dalmatian songs performed by local choirs (klapy), you will experience a piece of true local atmosphere.
Practical information: How to get to the festival and what to know beforehand
If you are planning to attend this year's edition, here are some proven tips directly from the field:
- Transport: You can reach Velo Grablje via the old scenic road (from Hvar town through Brusje village, or from Stari Grad). The road offers breathtaking views of the sea and surrounding islands, but it's full of curves, so drive carefully.
- Parking: Capacities in the village are limited. Cars are usually parked in a small parking lot below the church in the village center, but it is often full. Then, parking is done everywhere along the road in the Hvar style.
- Cash with you: Even though we live in a digital age, you won't get far with a payment card at the stalls of small local growers. Have enough euros in cash with you.
- Food: If hunger strikes you under the hot Hvar sun, you can taste local specialties at the local konoba Zbondini. The same applies to the renowned nearby restaurant Stori komin in the neighboring village of Malo Grablje.
- Admission: There is no admission fee for the festival itself and its accompanying program. Everything operates on a voluntary basis and support for local producers.
Why we keep coming back
The Lavender Festival in Velo Grablje always reminds us why we love Croatia so much. It's not just about the turquoise sea; it's also about the people who lovingly and proudly keep the legacy of their ancestors alive. When you take home a small bottle of oil from the festival, know that it contains a piece of Hvar's soul and centuries of human toil.
See you this year in Velo Grablje? Follow our blog, because soon we'll be preparing an exclusive behind-the-scenes look – we'll show you what manual lavender harvesting looks like on a family farm where machines stand no chance.
Another one of our stories about a past trip to Velo Grablje can be found here: https://zijemechorvatskem.wordpress.com/2021/01/03/vylet-do-levandulove-vesnicky-velo-grablje-na-hvaru/
Do you like the article? Share it with your friends who are going to Croatia this year, and let us know in the comments if you've ever experienced the scent of Hvar lavender firsthand.
