Lastovo is simply different. It had long attracted us, shrouded in an air of mystery. A remote island of Croatia, we had to see it. And they say it has an unforgettable atmosphere, which we wanted to experience. So we set off. I must say that we enjoy islands, and Lastovo delighted us greatly. Thanks to its remoteness, it is not such a frequent tourist destination, and perhaps because of this, it has preserved its authenticity to this day. And that's precisely why it's worth taking the longer journey and coming here.
An ideal place for romantic souls
Lastovo is one of the dark sky parks. The visibility of the night sky here is amazing thanks to the island's remoteness. According to the Czech Astronomical Society, Lastovo is one of the darkest places in Europe and one of the few places where a natural sky can be observed. All lighting on the island has been replaced to prevent light pollution. Currently, Lastovo is light-polluted by the Italian city of Bari, 180 km away. You might also be lucky enough to observe the bioluminescent sea. Those who haven't experienced it will find it hard to believe. It's a magnificent sight during a night swim. Every disturbance of the water is rewarded with tiny lights. Absolute darkness and no surrounding light are required for this. Lastovo is an ideal place for this, but we also managed to experience this phenomenon on a "robinsonade" on Hvar in a remote bay.
How to get to Lastovo?
There are several options. In Split, you can board a ferry directly to Ubli; a one-way ticket for an adult will cost you 68 HRK and for a car 530 HRK (year 2017). Another option is to leave your car parked in Split and take a catamaran for 75 HRK per person. A more lengthy option is to drive to the Pelješac peninsula, from there take a ferry from Orebić to the island of Korčula (16 HRK/person, 76 HRK/car), drive across the island to the port of Vela Luka, and from there take a ferry to Lastovo (32 HRK/person and 195 HRK/car). In any case, you must expect the journey to be more expensive and longer – the ferry from Split takes about five hours, the catamaran about three hours.
Our journey to Lastovo
We traveled to Lastovo by catamaran from the island of Hvar, where we had been staying for some time. Since we didn't want to pay a lot for the ferry, we left our car parked in Hvar town and planned to use a local car rental on Lastovo. We did not regret this decision for our entire stay. If you decide not to travel to Lastovo island with a car, you can rent a scooter on the island for about 30 €/day or a bicycle for about 15 €/day, or a car from 250 HRK/day.
So, we arrived by catamaran in Ubli – the only port on the island. From there, we took a local bus service to the main town of Lastovo in the island's interior. We had booked accommodation in advance in Zaklopatica Bay, which is located 2.5 km from the town, and we arranged with the owners for them to pick us up by car. The bus does not go into the bay – it only runs along the route Lastovo, Ubli, and Pasadur.
Zaklopatica Bay
Zaklopatica is a small fishing village scattered around a picturesque bay. The bay is a very popular destination for yachtsmen, which can actually be said about the entire island. The island was most famously visited by Bill Gates and singer Bono. There are 4 restaurants in the bay and no shops. The nearest shop is in Lastovo town. There is also a diving center in the bay. The bay itself does not offer many swimming opportunities; it has no classic beach at all.
Swimming in Korita Bay
The locals advised us to visit the adjacent Korita Bay, to which a path along the sea leads – rightly called the "goat path". Nevertheless, it is passable; even a five-year-old child managed the swimming trip with us and thoroughly enjoyed it. We had the bay all to ourselves. Korita Bay is rocky with a small pebble section. There are quite a few sea urchins in the sea, so it's worth bringing water shoes. Otherwise, it's a fantastic natural swimming spot. Nothing can be heard but the lapping of the sea and the rustling of the surrounding pine trees. Simply perfect solitude. It's definitely worth bringing a snorkel here too. After the initial rocks or pebbles, the bottom of the bay is sandy, which does not detract from visibility, and various fish can be observed quite well here. We were surprised by their numbers and diversity. We knew that the surrounding sea was rich in fish, but the reality was even better.
Trip to Mladine islet
Another swimming option is to go on a full-day fish-picnic to the islet of Mladine, near which is the only sandy beach in the archipelago called Saplun. It is a natural beach with a sandy bottom in the sea; outside, there are pebbles and rocks. There is no civilization here, only nature. It's also worth bringing a snorkel here. The trip departs from Zaklopatica Bay, and we can definitely recommend it. The trip includes grilled fish with salad for a late lunch. Don't forget to bring plenty of water.
Lastovo Town
Lastovo town itself is a sleepy village. There is one shop, an ATM, an information center, a post office, cafes, and restaurants. You can pleasantly wander through the town and climb the hill above it, where there is a historic building called Kašćel, now serving as a meteorological station. Definitely hike up to Kašćel; from there, you're rewarded with a beautiful view of the island and the surrounding islets. While wandering through Lastovo, you will surely notice various chimneys called fumar, which you won't find anywhere else in Croatia.
Excursions on Lastovo
The highest hill on the island, Hum, is also worth a trip. From there, there's a magnificent view of the surrounding islets of the Lastovo archipelago.
On the southern side of the island, near the Struga lighthouse, lies Skrivena luka bay. It's a charming bay with two restaurants and a few houses around. It offers pleasant swimming on the small pebble beach of Portorosso.
We could go on and on writing about the beauties of Lastovo, its unique fauna and flora, and its excellent Lastovo cuisine. But wouldn't it be better if you went to see that beauty for yourself?
