If I ever imagine what paradise looks like, Zaraće Bay largely fulfills this idea as one of the few places. Yes, it is simply a small piece of paradise on Earth for us.
There are actually two bays. Velo Zaraće (Zoraće in the local dialect) and Malo Zaraće. Both are partially protected from the open sea by a rocky cape – the one in Velo Zaraće is called Rt zub od Zaraće. A road connects both bays, where all visitors park their cars.
Our divine accommodation in Velo Zaraće, which we always book a year in advance, is right on a beautiful pebble beach. Besides the apartments, the owner also has his large terrace where he serves food he prepares himself for his guests.
And that he is an excellent cook is evidenced not only by our experiences but also by the fact that he cooked for years in a renowned restaurant in Hvar town. His terrace has a unique atmosphere. It is beautifully decorated, and the relaxing music that usually plays there simply underlines the soul of the place. As if it had always been there.
There are two houses right on the beach in Velo Zaraće. The one on the right is a 'robinsonade' with apartments. But don't imagine a completely deserted place or being without electricity and hot water under the term 'robinsonade' here. Electricity and hot water are always available. Here, the name signifies remoteness from civilization. On the other hand, all larger resorts are within a pleasant driving distance – Hvar is about a 10-minute drive, Stari Grad about 8 minutes, Vrboska about 12 minutes, and Jelsa about 15 minutes.
The house on the left is a restaurant with accommodation. Then there's another quite pleasant Mojito bar, but the prices there are like in Dubrovnik (for reference, 140 Kuna for one alcoholic and one non-alcoholic mojito). From there towards the access road, there are a few more small houses, and that's it. And the main thing is at the very bottom – a beautiful pebble beach.
Who would have thought that such a small bay would have a legend associated with it. According to legend, an Arab ship full of various treasures once sailed along the southern coast of Hvar island. The sailors on this ship had already anchored in many Mediterranean ports, sailed through many storms and battles, and thus did not expect anything else to surprise them at sea. That time, they encountered a great storm off the southern coast of the island. The ship sank, and with it, half the crew. The other half of the sailors managed to reach the Zaraće bays. And in the hill above the bays, they then founded the village of Zaraće.
You can visit Zaraće village; just drive up the road above the bay, and there's a turn-off further up the hill. Not much is known about the history of Zaraće. The village likely originated in the 19th century on land that once belonged to the Dominican order. The original village is above the road connecting Hvar and Stari Grad and is clearly visible from the road. In the early 20th century, about 100 inhabitants lived here; by the 1970s, it was just one person. Today, houses are slowly being renovated again.
So if you also long to experience a small piece of paradise on Earth, be sure to visit Velo Zaraće. Accommodation can be found online, but it's best to book well in advance; by spring, it's usually hopelessly sold out. And it's also a great base for exploring the western part of Hvar island.
